Seeing opportunity where others see only problems - innovation in wine-making at Alana Estate
The New World wine industry (i.e. particularly the USA, Australia and New Zealand) owes much of its success to its smarter production methods, not least being the innovative use of stainless steel plants derived from the dairy industry (now widespread). That gave them the platform to produce very clean wine, with fine control during the fermentation process providing greater taste consistency. Smarter consumer marketing has also been a major factor, which the Old World winemakers are only just starting to emulate. Innovation is happening in wine styles, as well.
Pinot Noir is the Rolls Royce of red wine grape varieties, requiring intensive, hands-on care and labour in all stages of growing, harvesting and winemaking. Yields are lower too, and long cellaring is also normal. When you look at Pinot Noir from a business model perspective, you see complexity, high input costs and long working capital cycles. Many winemakers avoid it for those reasons. (Fortunately for us, not all).
However, those very issues have been exercising the mind of one winemaker. For the past seven years, he’s been quietly working away on an idea. You’ve no doubt heard of Beaujolais Nouveau (based on the Gamay grape), especially if you’ve worked in London when the wine merchants race (literally, using chartered helicopters) to get the first bottles on sale on the official release date. Well, Chris Archer, winemaker at Alana Estate Wines in Martinborough, has achieved a similar style with Pinot Noir (Martinborough is home to several world-renowned Pinot Noir makers). I won’t attempt to describe all the difficulties in production and processing that Chris had to overcome, but the story struck me as a powerful example of seeing an opportunity where everyone else sees a problem.
All the hard work has resulted in a very exciting new product - Alana Estate’s Lumiere 2008. Last night, I had the pleasure of enjoying several glasses with Chris at the new wine’s first public outing. Not only is it a great summer red wine, but it’s also very affordable, selling for NZ$40 in the restaurant last night, and was a big hit with nearly all of the several dozen who tried it, with many bottles ordered and drunk. Let’s hope that’s a sign of future commercial success.






